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Tutorial: A Guide to Link2SD for Android

Posted by Unknown 23 Sept 2013 0 comments
Link2SD is an android application by Bulent Akpinar that lets you move apps and games to the 2nd partition of your SD card. Why do we have to use Link2SD when Froyo and Gingerbread’s Native Apps2sd moves the files to the SD card? Native apps2sd only moves the apk file of the application leaving other files in internal memory thus you still have to manage your on-board memory and limit your choice of apps because it will eat up your memory and later on you cannot install any files anymore. Additionally, widgets and some applications are not intended to be moved to the SD card. However, Link2SD is only for root users because it is required that your phone is rooted.
The idea behind the application is the same. But Link2SD has more relevant features which the Native Apps2sd lacked giving Android 1.5 and up users the chance to have a taste of what it’s like to have a big phone memory. Additional features were added by the developer to furher optimize the usage of android devices. By using Link2SD, you can move not only the application file, but also  the dalvic-cache and libray files of the application. This means that data will be the only one left to consume your internal memory thus installing applications and games would be easier because you can install anything you want without worrying about the famous low memory problem. Furthermore, Link2sd covers all files even moving widgets and the unmoveable applications to the 2nd partition of your SD card.
This is a step by step guide on how you can run Link2SD on your device. This tutorial will work for both stock and cutom ROMs. For ClockWorkMod Recovery users, you can check the other guide below. Follow all the instructions carefully to eliminate possible problems.
  1. First you have to download Mini Tool Partition Wizard Manager. You can download it HERE.
  2. Insert your SD card to a card reader and open it on your computer.
  3. Back up all your files to the computer because partitioning will wipe your data.
  4. Open Mini Tool in your computer. Locate your SD card (be careful in choosing and make sure not to choose the drive of your computer)
  5. Right click and choose Delete.link2sd 3
  6. Right click on it again and choose Create New. Create “FAT32″ partition (This is where all your media files will go. Be sure to make it bigger than the 2nd part)
  7. Select “Create as: PRIMARY” link2sd 4
  8. Next, create an ext2/ext3/ext4 partition (if you’re on stock ROM, choose ext2). This is where your apps will go. I suggest a value of 512Mb or 1Gb would be big enough but if you insist you can go as high as 2Gb.
  9. Select “Create As: PRIMARY” (make sure that it is both set to primary because it will not work if it is not set to primary) link2sd 5
  10. Click the “Apply” button on the top left corner and wait for it to finish the process. Done.
  11. Put back your SD card to your phone and switch it on.
  12. Download and install Link2sd from Google Play Store.
  13. Open Link2sd. You will be prompted to choose between ext2, ext3, ext4 and FAT32. Select ext2. link2sd 6
  14. It will say mount script created. Reboot your phone now.
  15. Open link2sd and if the message doesn’t show up, you succeded.
  16. Go to Link2sd>Settings>check the autolink (to automatically move apps upon installation)
  17. If you already have some apps, select “move to phone” then after moving select “Create Link” (be sure to check the three files: app, dalvic-cache and library files)
  18. link2sd 2link2sd
  19. To check your memory, select “Storage Info”. This will show you the current state of your internal memory, FAT32, and ext2 partition.                                                                                            link2sd 7
  20. Now you’re done and ready to install vast amount of applications as you wish!
FOR CLOCKWORKMOD RECOVERY USERS ONLY( ALTERNATIVE METHOD)
NOTE: You can also use the instructions above. This guide will work on both stock and custom ROMs.
  1. Back up all your files to your computer. Partitioning wipes the files of your SD card.
  2. Go into recovery mode
  3. Select “Advanced”
  4. Select “Partition SD card”
  5. Choose your SD-ext size (if you’re using a 2Gb SD card, choose 512Mb. If your SD card is 4Gb or greater, you can choose 1024Mb)
  6. Select 0 swap
  7. Wait for the process to finish. Reboot.
  8. Download and install Link2SD from Google Play Store.
  9. Open Link2SD you will be prompted to choose between ext2, ext3, ext4 or FAT32. Choose ext4.
  10. Follow instructions number 14-20. DONE!
Having troubles? Feel free to comment and post your questions below. Enjoy! :)

Secure your Facebook account in six easy steps

Posted by Unknown 0 comments
 Facebook wants its customers to share, and the company is very good at convincing users to make their private Facebook information available to the public.
According to a study published last year by Carnegie Mellon University researchers, changes in December 2009 to Facebook's privacy controls, and the introduction of Community Pages and Connected Profiles the following April very likely caused users to share more.
This reversed a four-year trend (2005 to 2009) of Facebook users tightening their privacy settings to share less, as Bianca Bosker described on the Huffington Post last March.
Facebook's recent proposal to change its privacy policy yet again has been criticized by privacy advocates, as Dara Kerr reported earlier this month. One of the changes will allow teenagers' names, images, and personal information to be used in Facebook ads.
According to the terms of a 2011 court order, Facebook must ask users for permission before making any changes to the service's privacy policy. Steven Musil reported last week that FTC officials contacted Facebook after learning about the company's plans as part of the agency's monitoring of the court order.
A privacy help center as readable as the tax code
The Facebook Help Center is overflowing with privacy information. That's the problem. Even theBasic Privacy Settings & Tools page lists 16 different topics in three categories. Another 10 separate topics are covered under Choose Who You Share With, six more in Advanced Privacy Controls, and eight more under Your Personal Data.

Wouldn't you rather spend your time on Facebook sharing pictures of your fast-food lunch or watching videos of grumpy cats? If so, you can skip scrolling through screen after screen of shag-carpet text and instead zip through this six-step Facebook privacy refresher.Altogether you're expected to work your way through 40 entries for managing Facebook privacy, many of which list multistep instructions for changing a single setting. Of course, one of the last of the 40 privacy entries links to Facebook's Privacy Policy, a portion of which is referred to as the Data Use Policy.
Step one: See your profile as others see it
Once you know how forthcoming your current Facebook setup is, you can decide what changes you need to make to your share settings. To view your account as others view it, sign into your account, choose the gear icon in the top-right corner, click Privacy Settings, and select Timeline and Tagging in the left pane.
Next, click View As to the right of "Review what other people see on your timeline" in the "Who can see things on my timeline?" section. Click Okay to close the pop-up window, if necessary. Your timeline will then appear as the public sees it.
Facebook "View As Public" profile
At the strictest privacy setting, the public sees only your Facebook profile and cover photos, and a link to contact you, which you can restrict to friends of friends.
(Credit: Screenshot by Dennis O'Reilly/CNET)
If you've limited access to your timeline to friends only, the public will see only your profile and cover photos, a link for contacting you (which you can limit to friends of friends), the people you're following, and the groups you belong to. To view your profile as a particular person sees it, click View as Specific Person at the top of the window and enter the person's name.
To change who can view your timeline, return to Facebook's Timeline and Tagging settings and click Edit to the right of "Who can see posts you've been tagged in on your timeline?" and "Who can see what others post on your timeline?" Make your selections for each setting on their drop-down menus and then click Close.
Facebook Timeline and Tagging view settings
Change who can view and post to your timeline via the drop-down menu in Facebook's Timeline and Tagging settings.
(Credit: Screenshot by Dennis O'Reilly/CNET)
Step two: Make sure you're browsing securely
Last month Facebook made secure browsing the default for all users. To ensure you're using a secure connection whenever one is available, click Security in the left pane of Facebook's Account Settings and make sure Secure Browsing is enabled.
The security settings also let you enable log-in notifications and approvals, and view and edit your recognized devices and active sessions. To remove a device, click Edit to the right and then Remove next to the device's entry. Likewise, to end one or all active Facebook sessions, click Edit to the right of Active Sessions and choose End Activity or End All Activity, respectively.
Facebook Security Settings options for ending active sessions
End some or all active Facebook sessions by clicking Edit to the right of Active Sessions in the Security Settings and select either End Activity or End All Activity.
(Credit: Screenshot by Dennis O'Reilly/CNET)
Step three: Limit access to you and your Facebook stuff
To restrict access to your past and future Facebook posts, click Privacy in the left pane of the Account Settings. Then choose Limit Past Posts under "Who can see my posts?" and Edit to the right of "Who can see your future posts?" in the same section. A warning appears when you attempt to limit access to all your past posts at once rather than changing the setting post-by-post.
Facebook warning about changing access to past posts
Facebook warns you that changing access to all your past posts at once rather than individually can't be undone.
(Credit: Screenshot by Dennis O'Reilly/CNET)
The options under "Who can contact me?" let you limit friend requests and filter the messages you receive. You can also restrict who can look you up by e-mail address and phone number, who can look up your timeline by name, and whether your timeline will link to search engines.
Step four: Tame your timeline and tags
You've already determined who can view your timeline (see step one), but you can also block friends from adding to your timeline and review photos someone attempts to tag you in via the Timeline and Tagging Settings. The only two options for "Who can post to my timeline?" under "Who can add things to my timeline?" are Friends and Only Me. To enable review of posts your tagged in before they appear on your timeline, click Edit to the right of the entry and select Enable in the drop-down menu.
Under "How can I manage tags people add and tagging suggestions?" you can enable the feature that allows you to review tags people add to your own posts before they appear, set who besides the normal audience sees the posts you're tagged in, and decide whether tag suggestions appear when photos that look like you are uploaded.
Facebook Tagging and Timeline Settings for facial recognition
To prevent Facebook from suggesting tags when photos that look like you are uploaded, set this option to No One.
(Credit: Screenshot by Dennis O'Reilly/CNET)
Step five: Don't let your apps run amok
Some Facebook apps grab all the permissions they can, including access to your information and the ability to post photos and status updates "on your behalf." For example, the IFTTT app lays claim to your complete profile and all your activities, as well as some of the profile and activities of your friends.
Facebook app settings for IFTTT
Facebook apps such as IFTTT require access to your entire account and some of your friends' information.
(Credit: Screenshot by Dennis O'Reilly/CNET)
To review your Facebook app permissions, click Apps in the left pane of the Account Settings window, choose Edit to the right of the app's entry, and either change the app's visibility via the drop-down menu, or click "Remove app" at the bottom of the entry. You can also click "Report app" to let Facebook know the app is spam, inappropriate, or requesting too much information, or to contact the developer to report a bug or abusive content, or for another reason.
Report app options for Facebook apps
Report an app to Facebook as spam or otherwise inappropriate, or contact the app's developer via the "Report app" option in the app's settings.
(Credit: Screenshot by Dennis O'Reilly/CNET)
To prevent other Facebook users from volunteering your information to the Facebook apps they use, click Edit to the right of "Apps others use," uncheck the categories of information listed, and click Save Changes.
Step six: Opt out of Facebook ads
Facebook currently doesn't let third-party apps or ad networks use your image or name in ads, but that may change in the future. To opt out ahead of time, click Ads in the left pane of the Account Settings window and choose Edit in the Third Party Sites section. Select "No one" in the drop-down menu under "If we allow this in the future, show my information to" and then click Save Changes.
To exclude yourself from Facebook's social ads, click Edit in the Ads & Friends section, choose "No one" on the drop-down menu next to "Pair my social actions with ads for," and select Save Changes.

Access Zedge From India Now

Posted by Unknown 20 Sept 2013 0 comments
“ZEDGE is currently blocked by certain Internet Service Providers and Mobile Operators in INDIA due to decree issued by the DOT and Indian High Court. This means that many users in India are unable to use this app and our websites.

 But there is a small hack to get into zedge anyways.

 Step 1 : Open Hidemyass 
Step 2 : Type zedge.net in the given textbox.
Step 3 : Click on Hidemyass Button.
Step 4:  Now you could access the zedge from india.

How to Photograph Light Trails

Posted by Unknown 0 comments
Photographing light trails is somewhat of a rite of passage for low light photographers – usually by setting up a nice landscape composition that includes a stretch of road and waiting for the right time when traffic is passing with their lights on. If you want to grab a similar shot know how to photograph light trails, then you’re in the right place!

Trailing off by CJ Isherwood, on Flickr
As you have probably figured out, light trails (aka “traffic trails” or “car light trails”) are basically made by combining a stationary camera, a long exposure and moving lights. With traffic, as the vehicles are moving through your frame, they are essentially invisible in the final shot leaving only the trail of their bright headlights or tail lights.
What Gear Will You Need for Photographing Light Trails?
One of the great things about shooting light trails is that it really doesn’t require a lot of gear. Basically, a camera and a stable place to put it are the essentials. In practice that means a camera, a tripod and a remote release.
What’s the Best Time to Shoot Light Trails?
Light trails can be shot in most low light conditions. Many of the most remarkable shots, however, are shot just after dusk in the blue hour. (Theoretically the hour before dawn works too, but it can be a lot harder to find a lot of cars or traffic on the roads at that hour). Many people also shoot remarkable light trails in fully dark conditions.
It’s also possible to shoot late in the Golden hour such as in the shot below.
Taking a Test Shot to Ensure Good Composition
Light trail shots are like any other. You need to compose them well. Ask yourself if the shot you are taking would look any good without the light trails. Try to experiment with traditional landscape compositions to get the one you most like. You might want to make reference to the Rule of Thirds, the Golden Section or other composition conventions (or throw out the lot), but make it deliberate. Just because you are shooting light trails doesn’t mean that the image will look great without other traditional elements that make a good photograph.
As you are shooting in low light and it can be difficult to see all of the elements, fire off a couple of test shots at a high ISO. This allows you to get the test shots done quickly and see them on your view finder. Don’t worry about noise etc – this is just to establish that you like the composition of the shot you are taking in the quickest way.
Now Start Considering Camera Settings
With your test shot out of the way, and your composition decided, you will then want to start considering camera settings. Obviously you are going to want a long shutter speed, while allowing as little noise into your final image as possible. That means you will want to flick the ISO down low – probably to 100.
If you want to keep as much of the frame in focus as possible (as you usually would) you will also want a narrow aperture. Somewhere between f16 and f22 will probably be about right. (Obviously this is for a wide depth of field. If you want a narrow depth of field (such as in the photograph of the Jim Beam bottle below) you will need to open up the lens with a lower Aperture setting). A narrow aperture will also give any stationary lights a “starburst” effect which is usually considered a good thing among many photographers.

beams by mugley, on Flickr
Finally you will need to set your shutter speed which will largely be determined by the first two settings. This will need to be long enough to get the trail effect of the lights moving through your frame. Make sure to use either your remote release or delayed timer on your camera so that you don’t move the camera while the shutter is open.
Note: A shortcut to figuring out the shutter speed is to shoot in Aperture Priority mode, but remember that this can sometimes fool the light measurements of your camera. If that happens, then you will want to shoot in manual mode to adjust for it. Shoot a couple of frames at different shutter speeds and be sure to check your histogram to make sure you aren’t losing any detail.
If you are confused about these settings, have a look at our explanatory article on the exposure triangle.

taixeta_6 by Aitor Escauriaza, on Flickr
Post Production for Light Trails
If you did everything right above, then you probably already have a very workable image. If you did it perfectly, you may not even need any post production. But sometimes these shots can use a little of the following helpers. Remember – go easy here – you might want to use one or all of these, but you shouldn’t need to move any of them more than a little.
Experiment with these Lightroom sliders (and check out this crash course):
  • Darken the Blacks
  • Tweak the Contrast
  • Tweak the Saturation and Vibrance
  • Tweak the Clarity
  • Tweak the Shadows and Highlights
Hopefully by this stage, you should be getting an image close to what you wanted to achieve. Shooting light trails can be a ton of fun and produce some great results. Share yours in the comments!

Subway Surfers Moscow Modded Unlimited Coins

Posted by Unknown 8 Sept 2013 0 comments

How to Compile JS & CSS to one file for best performance

Posted by Unknown 0 comments

To get the best performance on your website you need to reduce external call like js & css files.
I build little BASH script that compile all your files to one JS file and one CSS file.
We will use some tools like : Google Closure & dos2unix
1. Create “build” folder in your application.
2. Create the files “js_list.txt” and “css_list.txt” and write line by line all your js & css files.
3. Download Google Closure and copy the file “compiler.jar” to this folder.
4. Create the file “build.sh”
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#!/bin/bash
# (c) Copyright by Garry Lachman - http://www.garry-lachman.com
# GNU/GPL
echo "" > full.js
echo "" > full.css
# JS
echo -e "\nBuild JS\n----------------"
while read line ; do
        JS_FILES[$index]="$line"
        index=$(($index+1))
done < js_list.txt

for f in "${JS_FILES[@]}"
do
        cat "../js/$f" >> full.js
        echo ";" >> full.js
        echo -e "* $f"
done

#CSS
echo -e "\nBuild CSS\n----------------"
index=0
while read line ; do
        CSS_FILES[$index]="$line"
        index=$(($index+1))
done < css_list.txt

for f in "${CSS_FILES[@]}"
do
        cat "../css/$f" >> full.css
        echo -e "* $f"
done

echo -e "\n"
echo -n "Compile JS"
java -jar compiler.jar --language_in ECMASCRIPT5 --compilation_level WHITESPACE_ONLY --js full.js --js_output_file full-compiled.js
echo " - Done"
echo -n "CSS Dos2Unix Format"
dos2unix full.css full.css
echo -e "Moving Compiled Files"
cp full.js ../js/full.js
cp full-compiled.js ../js/full-compiled.js
cp full.css ../css/full.css
5. I use the parent folders “js” and “css” but you can change it to your folder, just replace “../js/” & “../css/” to your path
6. Executing permission:
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chmod +x build.sh
7. Run the code
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./build.sh
You will see the output like:
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[root@web-serv build]# ./build.sh

Build JS
----------------
* flash_wrapper/swfobject.js
* jquery.tools.local.min.js
* jquery.dropkick-1.0.0.js

Build CSS
----------------
* style.css
* components.css

Compile JS - Done
CSS Dos2Unix Formatdos2unix: converting file full.css to UNIX format ...
dos2unix: converting file full.css to UNIX format ...
Moving Compiled Files
Now check the files: full.css & full-compiled.js
Have fun :)

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